By Vicki Paris Goodman
Entertainment Writer
Kafta and kibbi and grape leaves, oh yes! And Sam and I got to try all of these plus more when we visited Baba Ghanouj, the new Lebanese restaurant that recently opened on Atlantic Avenue in Bixby Knolls.
Having taken over the space that Four Olives Café recently vacated, Baba Ghanouj’s proprietors have obviously taken great pains to make the place attractive and inviting. Their efforts have paid off. The restaurant is beautifully decorated in upscale Middle Eastern style and offers an ambience that will satisfy everyone from the casual diner to those looking to impress on a first date, and even those celebrating a special occasion.
Making it extremely easy for us to critique many of the menu items are the combination plates, each one offering lots of goodies. But first we started with a bowl of the excellent lentil soup ($4.50). An ample portion in a large deep bowl, this delicious thick vegetarian soup is enhanced with Swiss chard. The menu says, “Don’t forget to squeeze the lemon.” Take the menu’s advice, as the fresh lemon juice gives this soup the perfect punch.
On to the combos! As I said, we attempted to maximize our exposure to the menu by ordering combination platters. Of the three offered, we chose the meaty El Sheik Delight ($14.95) and the Vegetarian Combo ($12.95). The only overlap was that they both came with very good gritty and flavorful hummus— the popular dip made from chickpeas, garlic and olive oil.
The El Sheik Delight included our choice of shish kabab meat (we chose lamb), kafta, kibbi and grape leaves, served with hummus, rice and pita bread. The well done lamb chunks were quite tasty and perfectly cooked for Sam. I would have preferred them a little pinker. The kafta, which is a mixture of ground lamb, ground beef, onions, parsley and spices, was just delicious with a slight char on the outside. The similar-tasting kibbi is another ground lamb dish mixed with cracked wheat and layered with pine nuts. It was a winner.
The best thing of all on the El Sheik Delight was the lamb-stuffed grape leaves (Warak Enab). These were tart and tangy. We both agreed they were the best stuffed grape leaves we’d ever eaten.
Baba Ghanouj’s rice disappointed me a bit. In trying to improve on the unadulterated basmati variety, which is my favorite rice for its natural buttery fluffiness, the chef seasons it with black pepper, allspice and cinnamon. For me, the seasonings didn’t quite come across. I guess I’m a basmati purist.
Not to be deterred by stomachs already fairly full, we then dove enthusiastically into the Vegetarian Combo. Crunchy falafel, with a lovely nutty flavor, could be enjoyed with hummus, fantastic garlicky tahini, the best baba ghanouj I’ve ever tasted, or unadorned. Sam made little falafel pita sandwiches. It’s all good.
A few more words about Baba Ghanouj’s baba ghanouj, a dip made from charbroiled eggplant mixed with tahini, garlic, lemon and olive oil. I’ve never cared for baba ghanouj, as its consistency is almost always slimy and, to my taste, unappetizing. Baba Ghanouj’s version is creamy, not slimy, with the best smoky flavor ever. It’s fantastic, and we’d order it again and again. No wonder the restaurant is named after this dish, of which I am a brand new fan.
The veggie combo also featured a decent tabouli, which is a salad of fresh parsley, cracked wheat, tomato, onion and lemon. Nice vegetarian stuffed grape leaves (Warak Siam), which were different from the amazing lamb-stuffed version on the El Sheik Delight, were also included.
We were very happy with our experience at Baba Ghanouj. The food, service and atmosphere all met or exceeded our expectations. With several Italian restaurants having recently opened in the neighborhood, Bixby Knolls’ new Middle Eastern restaurant is a terrific addition.
Baba Ghanouj is located at 4276 Atlantic Ave. in Bixby Knolls. Open for lunch and dinner. Hours are 11am to 9pm daily. The restaurant does not take reservations. Phone (562) 424-4567.
