By Vicki Paris Goodman, Arts & Entertainment Editor
Delius has moved! The once exclusively prix fixe restaurant which dominated a small strip center on Long Beach Boulevard has relocated to posh new digs in Signal Hill, all the while transforming itself into a full-service order-off-the-menu establishment with full bar and all the accoutrements.
For those who fancy Delius’s original seven-course fixed-menu feast, the prix fixe offering still thrives, by reservation only, in a separate room off the main dining area.
But Delius has branched out, apparently in an effort to be more things to more diners. And if anyone can succeed at spreading themselves thin, it is husband and wife team, aka sommelier and executive chef, Dave and Louise Solzman. No matter how varied and complex their evolving restaurant becomes, quality reigns supreme.
Reinvented on the site of The Rib restaurant, Delius has updated its ambiance. Where the old location stressed a distinctly Victorian character, the new place is decisively industrial modern, with exposed ductwork crossing the unfinished ceilings and hard surfaces galore–nary a tablecloth nor fabric window treatment can be found in the main dining room. In fact, if anything at all disappoints me about the new Delius, it would be the lack of comfy coziness the old restaurant had in spades. But this is 2007, and an edgy atmosphere paired with the sound of bustling activity is, after all, de rigueur. Ah, well…
Sam and I stopped in recently with our good friends Harvey and Roberta Friedman. Our upbeat and knowledgable waiter Julie appeared promptly and seemed to show up again at all the right times. She enthusiastically sought a precise answer to my question as to the composition of the excellent complimentary artichoke tapenade that we were served on crisp garlic toasts. The staff at Delius are first rate.
Also complimentary is Louise’s wonderful freshly baked shallot bread, soft and doughy, served with three different butters–basil, sun-dried tomato and plain unsalted.
We had ordered wine from sommelier Dave’s exciting list of wines by the glass. This is another area in which Delius excels. Delius features a greater variety of wines by the glass than any other restaurant I know. Furthermore, the list represents reds, whites and blush wines from every imaginable corner of the world. If you like to try something new and different in a wine, Delius is the place to do it. And I have never ordered a wine at Delius that I didn’t find to be extraordinary in flavor, depth and complexity.
The four of us decided on two appetizers to share all around. A Delius staple, the large juicy Stuffed Mushrooms ($8) are filled with a goat cheese, walnut and mushroom mixture that is simply perfect. Our other appetizer, a special that evening, was a Sesame Crusted Tuna ($14), seared rare and served in an ample portion over a beautiful crunchy Asian slaw. This one was superb.
Then it was on to the entrees, which come with choice of salad or Louise’s exceptional soup. The slightly sweet Carrot Ginger soup was a hit of the evening, boldly flavored but not overpowering, and superior on this occasion to the Seafood Bisque, which was a tad bland.
Sam saw the Chipotle Macaroni and Cheese with Andouille Sausage ($18) on the entrée menu and was too intrigued not to order it, especially after Julie declared it was a favorite of hers. Sam was especially pleased with the small size macaroni comprising the dish, which was delectable in its cheesy, slightly spicy comfort food goodness.
Harvey loved his Garlic Sauteed Shrimp ($16), which were large, very fresh and, to Harvey’s immense satisfaction, quite garlicky. Roberta’s Salmon Fillet ($20) was as moist and flaky as could be, perfectly done, and served with a red wine sauce that complemented it surprisingly well. Both came with a buttery mushroom orzo and lovely vegetable medley.
My Filet Mignon with Port Reduction ($26) arrived plated with the same delightful orzo and vegetables. Recalling the superior quality of Delius’ beef from our past prix fixe experiences, I couldn’t resist ordering the steak rare. It was the right move, and one I would make only with the best quality beef. What a filet!
I just have to mention a memorable entrée from the regular dinner menu, which we’d ordered on a prior visit. The Lobster Ravioli ($13), chock full of tender lobster meat and covered in a creamy tomato and crab sauce, comes with a peppery mound of sauteed spinach that renders the dish one of the best of all.
Desserts (all $7) at Delius are typically outstanding. One of the most unusual and, I would say, a signature dessert of Louise’s, is the Russian Cream. Regular clientele have yet to adequately describe this phenomenon in words, even when vying for a free dinner a few years ago when Dave and Louise decided to make a contest of it. As I recall, no one truly succeeded. So I’ll take a stab at it here and now. The Russian Cream is a gelatinous white cloud of chiffon-like pudding, with a mildly sweet flavor reminiscent of marshmallow. I would say its consistency is the main event.
On the evening we dined with the Friedmans, however, we chose the Banana Pound Cake topped with fresh bananas in a rich caramel sauce. An abundant serving of four cake slices–one for each of us!–the warm banana cake was only mildly sweet, allowing the sweeter sauce to delight the taste buds without being too much.
Delius’ new format is probably a very good thing. Where the old restaurant could be enjoyed only in the prix fixe or wine bar settings, the new Delius is both of those things plus a spur-of-the-moment dinner decision, lunch or Sunday brunch. By the way, the brunch and lunch menus look to be reasonably priced and may well be sampled on our visits in the very near future. I can’t wait!
Delius is located at 2951 Cherry Avenue in Signal Hill. Open Tuesday through Thurday 11 a.m. to 10 p.m.; Friday 11 a.m. to 11 p.m.; Saturday 4 p.m. to 11 p.m.; Sunday 10 p.m. to 3 p.m. brunch and 3 p.m. to 9 p.m. dinner. Happy Hour is Tuesday through Friday 4p.m. to 6 p.m.
For more information call the restaurant at (562) 426-0694 or visit them online at www.deliusrestaurant.com.
