We’ve all been there—hungry at a restaurant, perhaps on a date or celebrating an anniversary. But the server is not getting our order straight, or not getting it to the kitchen, or pushing the specials, or even suggesting we are alcoholic for wanting a drink…
International City Theatre’s (ICT) streaming production of Wendy MacLeod’s “Slow Food” dramatizes such a dining calamity with excruciating hilarity. The three actors playing a waiter and married couple excel in their fast-paced, escalating exchanges that will have you giggling at their predicament while cringing in recognition.
Arriving famished at one of the only open restaurants in Palm Springs on a Sunday night, which happens to be Greek, our couple on their anniversary vacation (Stu James as husband and Meredith Thomas as wife) experience the misfortune of having a waiter (Perry Ojeda) who seems to be operating under his own rules.
MacLeod says the waiter is based on a real-life dinner where she “encountered the most extraordinary waiter that I’ve ever met. And by that, I mean bad. The worst waiter I have ever, ever had. And he seemed to kind of thrill to his power to control.”
As the waiter finds every seemingly innocuous way to prevent the couple from ingesting anything besides water, tension between them escalates along with their hunger. Whenever the waiter steps away from the table, and before his empty-handed returns, the couple squabble and accuse each other about everything from children to a health scare.
But they also share fleeting moments of tenderness and the excitement of stealing bread from another table. We come to learn about all three characters over the course of the play in the same way the flavor of braised lamb—the restaurant’s special of the day—deepens as it simmers.
Surprisingly, given that we see them interact closely together, the three actors had to be filmed separately due to pandemic safety protocols, with digitally projected but vibrant backgrounds (designed by Antonio Beach). Under the direction of Marya Mazor, and video design and editing by Mike Bradecich, the play works well in virtual space, perhaps even better than on stage because we see each actor’s face as dialogue bounces briskly among them.
All three actors deliver MacLeod’s rapid-fire dialogue with perfect timing, adjusting their tones and expressions on a dime. Ojeda captures the waiter’s smug sensitivity, an unctuous combination that makes us detest and enjoy him at the same time.
James warmly embodies a man who clearly loves his wife but understandably resists being held hostage by a waiter when all he wants is a Sam Adams.
And Thomas shines as the starving woman having to negotiate between them, trying to appease both men while simultaneously figuring out how to secure sustenance for her hypoglycemic self.
The mirth is unrelenting from beginning to end of “Slow Food,” which unfolds in one jam-packed act in this virtual production. In a way, you may be thankful to experience it in your living room so you can cringe, laugh and exclaim things like, “Oh no he didn’t!” out loud. But order it up while you can—this play ends its quick yet delicious run next week.
International City Theatre’s “Slow Food” is available to stream through May 16 on Thursdays, Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays (dark Monday, Tuesday and Wednesday). Tickets are $30 plus a $3 fee and can be purchased at InternationalCityTheatre.org.
