Having moved into the space on the west side of Atlantic Avenue where numerous restaurants have cast their lot and come up short, La Casita Rivera inspires confidence that the space at 3819 may finally have found a more permanent resident. Here’s hoping that the homey little eatery will be with us for a good long time.
Proprietors Lilly and Tomas Rivera have entrusted the restaurant’s kitchen to talented Mexican chefs who bring that extra something to menu items like Caldo de Res, Chilaquiles and Spanish Rice. Rivera’s tangy green sauce is a wonder all its own.
My first visit was to meet Neena (yes, of the Signal Tribune), and I’ve since been back several times with my husband Sam. Our greyhound Sid even accompanied us when it poured rain a couple of weekends ago. He settled in at our feet as we indulged outside under the restaurant’s wide awning. Yes, La Casita Rivera has a dog-friendly patio!
On to the food……
My dinner visit with Neena happened on a day when I’d had too much lunch and wasn’t very hungry. So I ordered a Chile Verde Tostada ($3.50) as a snack. Although I can handle the chile verde with much more spicy hotness than Rivera’s had, the pork was lean, tender and flavorful. The homemade corn tortilla shell was crunchy, and the beans, lettuce, cheese and sour cream added just the right freshness. I added lots of Rivera’s fabulous salsa because, well, that’s what I do. I’ve since or- dered this dish again. With its ample portion of meat, it is very satisfying!
Sam is hooked on the Enchiladas MoleÌ ($7.49) and may never venture away from that menu item. The enchiladas were filled with excellent seasoned chicken breast and covered with a sumptuous sweet mole sauce. The enchiladas were plated with excellent Spanish Rice and good refried beans, and came with warm tortillas.
For me, it got better and better. Breakfast at La Casita Rivera had me taking a chance on the Chilaquiles ($8.48 with two eggs), a dish that sort of resembles pan-fried nachos covered with red or green chile sauce. I ordered them topped with eggs over easy and couldn’t decide between red sauce and green. Lilly suggested I try both— red on one half and green on the other. That sounded good to me, and believe me, it was. The eggs even arrived perfectly cooked, with firm whites and loose yolks. That is the day I fell in love with Rivera’s green chile sauce.
Not to be outdone, our last visit was that crazy July evening when it rained cats and dogs (sorry, Sid). It was also a little chilly out on the patio. So I tried a winter comfort-food favorite, the Caldo de Rez ($6.99). I really haven’t had a great version of this dish since I first discovered it 25 years ago at a little place in Bell Gardens. Well, suffice it to say I finally have my Cocido (another name for Caldo de Rez) back again, just the way it’s supposed to be.
The bowl of big chunks of lean beef, carrots, chayote, zucchini, cabbage, potatoes and a corn cobette in a wonderful cilantro-seasoned clear broth was enormous. It arrived with the traditional sides of Spanish Rice, chopped onions, more cilantro, lime wedges and warm tortillas. I took home fully half the dish. And unlike the earlier visit with Neena, this time I’d arrived starving.
Warning: Like the tortillas, Rivera’s extra crunchy tortilla chips are made on the premises, and I think they are the best I’ve ever had. Add the fabulous salsa, and you have a basket of chips and salsa that you can’t stop eating.
We’re going back to La Casita Rivera again tonight. Will Sam stick with the Enchiladas Mole? What tasty new menu item will I try? Perhaps the Sopes, or a Chile Relleno and Sope combination. I have no doubt it’s all wonderful.
La Casita Rivera is located at 3819 Atlantic Ave. Beer and wine are available, as well as beer and wine “cocktails.” Restaurant hours are: Sundays through Thursdays from 9am to 9pm; Fridays and Saturdays from 9am to 10pm. For more information, call (562) 427-8600 or visit lacasitarivera.com .
