By Vicki Paris Goodman
Arts and Entertainment Editor
Like the mystical phoenix, Johnny Rebs’ has risen from the ashes to begin life anew in its original North Long Beach locale. The restaurant is once again open for business!
A kitchen fire one year ago ravaged the rustic building and closed the enormously popular eatery, leaving loyal customers to either pine away until the re-opening or travel to the small chain’s Bellflower branch for their BBQ, catfish or grits fix. And rather than pretend the calamity never happened, instead the business has embraced its misfortune. Framed newspaper articles covering the event proudly line the entry walls. Smoke-damaged license plates that otherwise survived the fire have returned to their rightful places as wall art. The famous “Elvis wall” has been rebuilt with “new” Elvis memorabilia. And the wait staff all sport T-shirts depicting a flame-engulfed structure and the catchphrase, “Johnny Rebs’ smokes! We’re serious about real BBQ.”
Cute, eh? Nothing like a positive attitude and good sense of humor to bring back one’s fans and boldly welcome the future.
Sam and I visited recently for a mid-Sunday meal. As we approached the entrance, piped-in barnyard sounds emanating from a speaker above the door had us smiling as the host greeted us. The place looked remarkably like it always had, with a more polished look to the abundant woodwork, fresh booth upholstery and window dressings, and the subtle glitz of pink neon lighting around the ceiling perimeter. Cool.
The staff seemed, remarkably, even friendlier and more upbeat than before. Rebirth was in the air.
Sam went for the Southern Fried Chicken ($9.29 lunch; $13.89 dinner), a super crunchy and slightly spicy version deep fried to perfection. Side choices were the delicious Southern Slaw and surprisingly tasty, if a bit salty, mashed potatoes with Johnny Rebs’ excellent gravy. A big flaky fluffy biscuit finished off Sam’s ample meal.
Wanting to indulge in one of my tried and true Johnny Rebs’ favorites, instead I courageously delved into the unknown, opting for a combination of Pulled Pork and Baby Back Ribs ($13.48 lunch; $19.88 dinner) – two items I’d never ordered before. Johnny Rebs’ baby backs are surprisingly lean and impart a good smoky flavor while, of course, literally falling off the bone. The barbecue sauce topping the ribs was sweet and tangy. The pulled pork, with nary a particle of fat, was utterly tender and flavorful – a new favorite, perhaps?
My collard greens had lots of little bits of bacon or pork and couldn’t have been more delicious. The mac ‘n cheese were a sumptuous affair that might be the best I’ve ever eaten. Lastly, the gritty and unsweetened cornbread is just superb to my taste. Those who like it sweet and cakey might be disappointed.
I simply cannot end this without gushing a bit about some of the other dishes I’ve discovered over the years at Johnny Rebs’. The wonderful fried catfish is crispy on the outside, moist and flaky on the inside. Try it with eggs and grits for breakfast, or as a Catfish Po’ Boy (sandwich) for lunch, or – my favorite – the unbelievable Catfish Caesar Salad. This is one of the best salads anywhere. An enormous portion of fresh romaine lettuce with lots of shredded parmesan cheese and croutons is tossed in a really terrific Caesar dressing. The fried catfish sits on top. And best of all, the croutons are deep fried chunks of cornbread! To die for.
The hushpuppies, which can be chosen in lieu of a bisquit or cornbread with most meals, are delicious little deep-fried rounds of cornbread. So crunchy and fun to eat.
I love the tart and juicy seasonal Fried Green Tomatoes, which are batter dipped and fried, then sprinkled with real bacon bits. The Sweet Potato Fries are another special treat, as is Johnny Rebs’ excellent lemonade. Sam likes to order the “swampwater,” a less sweet half-and-half mixture of lemonade and iced tea (an “Arnold Palmer” to some). There is more to praise, but I’ll stop here.
Suffice it to say, Johnny Rebs’ is back with some history, a few scars and a story to tell. I think that makes it even better than before.
Johnny Rebs’ Southern Roadhouse is located at 4663 Long Beach Blvd. in Long Beach, Ph (562) 423-7327, with branches in Bellflower, the City of Orange and Victorville. Wine and beer are available. Restaurant hours are Sun – Thu, 7 a.m. – 9 p.m.; Fri & Sat, 7 a.m. – 10 p.m. Toll free number for catering is (866) 628-6666.
