Everybody eats: A holiday reflection on food equity

A free food crate distributed by Ruth Crosthwaith’s church in 2020. Groceries included vegetables, fruits, milk, yogurt, bread and packages of snacks. (Kristen Farrah Naeem | Signal Tribune)

As the holiday season enters full swing, food is on our minds, and for good reason. Charities seek public support, while special meals are planned for families. 

Food businesses aim to boost their revenue from home-based bakeries to local eateries. Meanwhile, the economic impacts of a lengthy pandemic continue to challenge our wallets and pantries.

I co-founded Long Beach Fresh in 2015 to support a more connected local food system. Using the Food Policy Council model, we have been the primary convener of over 100 local food organizations and businesses. We’ve sought to support local “eaters, feeders, and seeders” through advocacy, events, resource-sharing and consulting.

I’ve witnessed a local food revolution—a cultural shift in awareness about food justice, community health and climate adaptation. We’ve dug deep into the root causes of food inequity; reasons why households continue to be priced out of quality food, while diverse food entrepreneurs struggle to grow. 

Rising costs and profit-skimming, food chain interruptions, a changing and empowered workforce, ambitious economic development and a proliferation of marketing for highly processed foods emerged as key symptoms of a floundering food system that makes fresh, wholesome and healthy choices difficult. 

As complex as food systems can be, the root cause that underlies food inequity is simple—disconnect.

First, when we are disconnected from our food and lack control about our food choices, our health suffers. Reconnecting to our food is empowering, whether it’s through a corner market that offers cultural ingredients, a small space to grow food, culinary learning opportunities or even a pop-up chef who inspires us to evolve our tastes. 

Similarly, when those in positions of power are disconnected from the communities that they serve, their impact dwindles and resources are wasted. I’ve seen some incredible community-driven programs in our network turned down by the City’s Recovery Act grant program. 

Throughout the pandemic, food security also became politicized, with officials clamoring to take credit for reducing hunger, while often neglecting to acknowledge community partners that made new developments possible. Our City must empower small organizations to harness the tenacity and creativity found in local communities.

Lastly, when we are disconnected from a sense of community, our wellbeing suffers and social ills multiply. Food is a great connecting point, because while everybody eats, we can also have diverse approaches to food. 

Our Crop Swap in North Long Beach fosters a sense of belonging, alongside a platform that they create for locals to co-power food innovation. A curiosity and fascination with how our communities eat connects us to a life force that sustains us all. 

Today, my organization is under threat of closure after nearly eight years of service. We have room to grow our team and deepen our work. Our city-wide food map, interest groups around nutrition security, food entrepreneurs and youth education; plus annual events such as the Foodways Summit are invaluable. I invite readers to learn more, support our cause and tap into the resources we’ve created at LBFresh.org. 

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